Best Seedling Tray Cell Count: Choose Right for Tomatoes, Peppers & More!

Stop seedling struggles! This detailed guide reveals the perfect seedling tray cell count (72-cell? 128? 50?) for tomatoes, peppers, lettuce, cucumbers, flowers & more. Learn why size matters for roots & transplant success! Grow stronger plants.

Richard

8/8/20237 min read

green leafed plants
green leafed plants

The Gardener's Guide to Seedling Trays: Choosing the Perfect Cell Count for Every Plant 🌱

Are you still struggling with stunted seedlings or tangled roots? The secret often lies in choosing the right-sized home for your baby plants before they even sprout. Selecting the optimal cell count in your seedling trays is a fundamental step for raising robust, transplant-ready vegetables and flowers. Get it right, and you set the stage for a thriving garden. Get it wrong, and you face unnecessary setbacks. Today, I'd love to dive into the details about how to choose the right seeding tray for your garden, greenhouses and planting bases!

green plant on blue plastic pot
green plant on blue plastic pot
Moisture Management

Smaller cells dry out much faster than larger ones, requiring more frequent watering and increasing the risk of drought stress. Larger cells retain moisture longer but can become waterlogged if not managed well.

Nutrient Availability

A limited root zone in a small cell means limited access to nutrients within the growing medium.

Root Development

Cells that are too small restrict root growth, leading to root-bound plants that are stressed and struggle after transplanting. Cells too large waste space, medium, and potentially water.

Why Cell Count Matters (It's Not Just About Space!)

The seedling tray unit is like the first apartment of the plant. Different plants have different sizes, living spaces, water consumption, and planting depths, so the unit size is crucial:

Growing Time
Transplant Shock

Larger cells allow seedlings to grow larger and stay healthier for longer periods before they absolutely must be transplanted, offering more flexibility. Small cells force an earlier transplant.

Seedlings started in appropriately sized cells develop strong root balls that hold together well during transplanting, minimizing shock. Root-bound seedlings from tiny cells or fragile, underdeveloped roots from overly large cells suffer more.

Comparison

Demystifying Cell Counts: Size vs. Number

High Cell Count (e.g., 128, 200 cells)

Small Cells (Often ~1" x 1" or less). Best for tiny seeds, fast-growing crops, or crops tolerant of close quarters and early transplanting.

Medium Cell Count (e.g., 72 cells)

Medium Cells (Typically ~1.5" x 1.5" or 2" deep). The most popular "all-rounder" size.

Large Cells (Often ~2" x 2" or larger, sometimes 3-4" deep). Essential for large seeds, plants with extensive root systems, or those needing a longer growth period indoors.

Low Cell Count (e.g., 50, 36, 21 cells)

Your Seedling Cell Count Cheat Sheet: Plant by Plant Recommendations

Here's a detailed breakdown of common garden plants and their ideal tray sizes:

  1. Tomatoes & Peppers (Solanaceae Family):

    • Best Choices: 72-cell trays are the standard and most versatile choice. They provide ample space for strong root development for the typical 6-8 week indoor growing period.

    • Good Alternatives:

      • 50-cell trays: Excellent if you need to keep seedlings indoors longer (e.g., due to unpredictable weather), are growing large-fruited/heirloom varieties known for vigorous roots, or want slightly larger, sturdier transplants. Provides a significant root space boost.

      • 128-cell trays: Can be used if you transplant very early (at 3-4 weeks, just as true leaves form) and are diligent about watering. However, plants can become root-bound quickly and stall. Not ideal for beginners or if you can't transplant on schedule. Best for commercial growers with precise schedules.

    • Why? These plants have moderately extensive root systems and benefit from sufficient depth and volume to develop a strong root ball before facing garden stresses.

  2. Eggplant:

    • Best Choice: 50-cell trays. Similar to tomatoes/peppers but often benefits from slightly more root space or a slightly longer indoor period to develop warmth-loving strength before going outside. 72-cell trays work, but 50-cell is often optimal.

    • Why? Eggplants can be slightly slower to establish and appreciate the extra root room.

  3. Lettuce, Spinach, Kale, Swiss Chard & Other Leafy Greens:

    • Best Choices:

      • 128-cell trays: Excellent for fast-growing greens like most lettuce varieties, spinach, and kale. They germinate quickly, grow rapidly, and are typically transplanted fairly young (3-5 weeks). The smaller cells are efficient.

      • 72-cell trays: A very safe and flexible choice, especially for larger greens like Swiss chard, collards, or if you want slightly more robust lettuce transplants. Provides a bit more buffer against drying out.

    • Why? These plants generally have shallower root systems initially and are transplanted before becoming overly large. Speed and efficiency are key.

  4. Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts (Brassicas/Cole Crops):

    • Best Choice: 72-cell trays. The ideal balance for their moderate growth rate and root size during the standard 4-6 week indoor period.

    • Good Alternative: 50-cell trays. Beneficial if starting very early, growing large varieties, or needing to hold seedlings longer indoors due to weather. Provides extra resources.

    • Avoid: 128-cell trays are generally too small. Brassicas develop decent taproots and can become stunted in tiny cells.

    • Why? They need sufficient depth for initial taproot development and overall root mass to support their leafy growth.

  5. Cucumbers, Melons, Summer & Winter Squash (Cucurbits):

    • Best Choice: 50-cell trays (or larger pots!). Crucial! These plants have rapid growth, large seeds, and extremely sensitive roots that dislike disturbance.

    • Good Alternative: 3" or 4" individual pots. Often preferred over trays for even more root space and easier, less disruptive transplanting.

    • Avoid: 72-cell trays are the absolute minimum and still less than ideal. 128-cell trays are strongly discouraged – seedlings become root-bound and stressed almost immediately after germination, leading to severe transplant shock.

    • Why? Fast growth + sensitivity to root disturbance = need for maximum space from the start. Minimizing transplant shock is paramount for good establishment.

  6. Onions & Leeks (Alliums):

    • Best Choices:

      • 128-cell or 200-cell trays: Very commonly used, especially for onions grown from seed (not sets). They are typically started densely and transplanted as small grass-like seedlings in clumps or singles.

      • 72-cell trays: Also work well, producing slightly larger, sturdier seedlings that might establish marginally faster. A good choice for leeks which benefit from slightly more space for their thicker base.

    • Why? Onion seeds are small, and seedlings are narrow and upright. They tolerate closer spacing well initially. Leeks appreciate a bit more room for base development.

  7. Flowers (General Guidelines):

    • Small Seeds / Delicate Seedlings (Petunias, Snapdragons, Lobelia, Begonias): Start in 128-cell or 200-cell trays or even flats/specialty propagation trays. Prick out into larger cells (72 or 50) once true leaves appear.

    • Medium Seeds / Moderate Growth (Marigolds, Zinnias, Cosmos, Salvias): 72-cell trays are usually perfect.

    • Large Seeds / Vigorous Growers (Sunflowers, Nasturtiums, Sweet Peas): Use 50-cell trays or larger individual pots (3-4"). These often dislike root disturbance and grow quickly.

    • Why? Flower diversity is huge! Always consider seed size, growth speed, and root sensitivity.

Key Factors Influencing Your Choice

Time to Transplant

How long will the seedlings realistically stay in the tray? If your outdoor planting date is flexible or often delayed by weather, size up (e.g., choose 50-cell over 72-cell for tomatoes). If you transplant on a very strict, early schedule, you might get away with smaller cells.

Your Climate & Watering Frequency

In hot, dry environments or if you can't water multiple times a day, avoid 128/200 cell trays – they dry out incredibly fast. Opt for 72-cell or larger for more buffer. If you have automated misting or are very attentive, smaller cells are more feasible.

Seedling Vigor

Some varieties within a species are simply more vigorous. Heirloom tomatoes or giant pumpkins might need 50-cell trays where a compact determinate tomato could thrive in 72.

Transplant Method

If you use a soil blocker, you have infinite flexibility in block size! Otherwise, stick to standard tray sizes.

Pro Tips for Seedling Tray Success

The 72-Cell Sweet Spot: If you're new to seed starting or only want one tray size, 72-cell is the most universally useful. It accommodates a wide range of plants reasonably well.

Don't Overfill Cells: Sow 1-3 seeds per cell (depending on germination rate), then thin ruthlessly to the ONE strongest seedling per cell. Crowding = weak, leggy plants.

Depth Matters: Ensure your tray cells have adequate depth (at least 2-2.5 inches) for root development, especially for tomatoes, peppers, brassicas, and cucurbits. Some "72-cell" trays are deeper than others.

Quality Medium: Use a sterile, lightweight, well-draining seed starting mix, not heavy garden soil.

Anything Else?

In addition to the above, are there other details that need attention but are often overlooked? Of course. Based on our observations and research on customers, there are mainly the following three parts that are easily overlooked.

a bunch of plants that are in some pots
a bunch of plants that are in some pots
Cleanliness is Key

Sterilize reused trays and pots with a 10% bleach solution or similar disinfectant to prevent disease.

Harden Off

Never skip gradually acclimating indoor seedlings to outdoor sun, wind, and temperatures before transplanting!

Label Everything!

Trust us, you will forget what's where.

Match the Cell to the Seedling

Personally, I think choosing the right seedling tray cell count isn't just about fitting more plants in a space; it's about providing each seedling the optimal environment for strong root development and minimal stress. By matching the tray size to the specific needs of the plant you're growing – considering its root system, growth speed, transplant sensitivity, and your own growing conditions – you lay the foundation for a healthy, productive, and resilient garden.

So ditch the guesswork, use this guide, and watch your seedlings thrive! 🌿 If you thinks this blog is helpful to your daily seeding, feel free to subscribe us to reach update of seeding knowledge.